ACTION

 COMMENT

JULY

1. Beginning of month: ......................

2. Beginning of month: ......................

3. July onwards: ................................

 4. July generally: ...............................

5. Emergency Feed: .........................

Raise nuclei; it is not too late to raise nuclei and this could be an ideal way of ensuring you go into winter with sufficient stock for next year. If you have failed to get bees this year, approach an experienced beekeeper to help you

Reduce strong stocks to 4 inch entrances, the rest to 1 inch entrances. Really weak stock e.g. 4 Frame nucleus to 1 bee space. Block up any holes/gaps in boxes because other bees/wasps will enter the narrowest gap. Entrance blocks are usually sold with 4" opening. Turn block through 90 degrees and make second opening of 1 inch.

Clear supers using Porter bee escapes (or similar). Don't shake bees off because of robbing risks. Clear/wash-up spills. Best to do this job in the evening and put on hold if any robbers appear. Clear supers as soon as honey has ripened. Where oil seed rape is grown this is essential since any trace of oil seed rape honey in comb will expedite crystallisation of other honeys. Unless you have a late crop such as borage here in Stewkley the flow is generally over by 15^thof the month. On this basis try to have all honey extracted and supers off by 31^stJuly. Early removal of the crop enables any varroa treatment to be brought forward (see below). There is no point in leaving the supers on. Any later flow will benefit your bees. If you do have a heavy, late flow, put clearances on hold.

 Take any opportunity to start getting colonies/nuclei ready for winter.

Removal of supers may result in stocks being short of food. Check by hefting hives at times of super clearances. No colony should ever have less than 15lbs. Give feed if necessary (and see below as to feeding for winter).

AUGUST generally.

6. Do "Health and Fit-for-Purpose" checks...............................................

 As soon as supers are cleared, carry out these checks by asking yourself the following questions in regard to each colony:

·        Are bees happy & healthy?

·        Brood pattern normal? Is there any sign of disease?

·        Is there sufficient food to keep bees going until winter feed? (See below)

·        Is there any sign of disease?

·        Are the bees of good temperament?

7. 15^thAugust (or sooner if supers cleared). ………………………………

8. 15^thAugust (or if later once supers removed, Winter feeding…………….

9. Robbing!........................................

10. Winter preparations………….…..

A stock in trouble may soon get robbed out by the bees/wasps and disease may be spread and an unpleasant stock will cause endless problems until dealt with. Take steps to remedy any flaw and speak to an experienced beekeeper as needed. This is another step towards getting bees ready for next year.

 Apply Apiguard varroa treatment. Apiguard will not work well in cool conditions so it is better to treat early. Apply in accordance with manufacturer's instructions. You need to place Apiguard trays in an eke (empty box) directly above brood frames. Open wire floors should be blocked off - I use old pieces of plywood cut to the floor's base dimensions blocking up any gaps. Don't have an eke? A cheap solution. Take standard cover board and attach strips of wood at least 1 ½ " deep x 1 ½ " wide to one side to create an eke. N.B. Deep enough for bees to walk through trays.

Start winter feeding. Each colony needs 40lbs of stores Usually winter feeding and varroa treatments have to take place at the same time. One way of achieving that is to have a suitably deep eke above brood frames (e.g. deep brood box) within which the Apiguard tray is placed. Bucket of food can then be placed to one side tray. If Ashforth or similar feeder is used there is no need for a deep eke. Feed at twilight. Avoid, and clear up, any spills to minimise robbing. Some experts say feeding and Apiguard treatment done simultaneously makes the treatment less effective. My advice - if you have no alternative, go for it!

Put all stocks on 1 inch entrance block settings (see above), weak on one bee space entrances. Risk of robbing increasing. Some may not agree with these narrow entrances especially for strong colonies which tend to gather around the entrances. My view is that those gatherings are the best deterrent to robbers. Seal and keep sealed any gaps in hives. Metal strips with drawing pins work well. Don't use dried grass - it will shrink and in come the robbers.

Repair & renew hives as necessary especially checking roofs and floors and hive stands. Wood on old roofs, otherwise sound, may split. Fill gaps with external glue/sawdust mix and paint with modern exterior paint. Don't paint other parts of hive as it will cause sweating unless you used a water-based paint, e.g. for hive identification. Remember, damp kills, cold, generally, doesn't! Ensure that there is an air space of at least 12 inches between base of floor and the ground. This is easily achievable using hive stands.

SEPTEMBER: Generally

11. Feeding!!......................................

12. Varroa treatment………………….

13. Robbing…………………………..

 14. It's Showtime!.............................

Complete Winter feeding by 20^thSeptember. The bees must have sufficient time to seal stores before winter.

Complete treatment as soon as possible.

Continue to be ever watchful. Steps you can take to stop a stock being robbed. Reduce entrance to one bee space.  Lean a sheet of clear glass against the hive so as to make the hive inaccessible except through the channel you have created between the hive and the glass and stuff the channel at either end with loose grass. This will distract the robbers. An even more effective measure may be to move the bees elsewhere until the first severe frosts bring the robbing season to an end.

You MUST come and take part in Bedfordshire BKA's great Annual Honey Show. You will learn much by comparing your produce against others, and much more besides! It is quite extraordinary how often beginners walk away with the silverware, so, please, have a go!

OCTOBER;

15. Tidying up……………………….

16. Floor blocks and ventilation……..

17. Ekes………………………………

18. Apiary visits………………………

19. The Winter Jobs…………………

20. Association Talks..............................

This is the time to get apiaries "ship-shape" so that when Spring arrives you and your bees are ready to go. Remember there is nothing more infuriating (especially to those of us trying to help out) than finding you requires some piecse of equipment but it is not to hand. Get the work done now.

Until bees can defend wider entrances in Spring, I leave all stocks on either a 1 inch or bee space setting (see note for August above) right through the winter. As I have hives with open mesh floors on open stands no special provision for ventilation is provided. If you use solid floors, place ¼ inch strips say 3 inch long under cover board to provide air gap above top box but delay doing this until risk of robbing has ceased - usually end of November.

My bees go into winter with an eke immediately above brood chamber. The cover board is placed over the eke. This helps winter management - see below. There is a risk that a strong colony will build some wild comb in the space created but this will be never significant and can easily be cleared in early Spring (if not earlier).

Until February there will be no need for you to visit your bees more frequently than every 2/3 weeks and after snow/storms etc. Try to visit apiaries about midday on sunny days. Apiary checks. Apiary checks will include hefting each side of each hive for weight. If the bees are still flying freely (and despite my urgings, if winter feeding still needs to be done, continue with syrup feed as per August but once bees are semi-hibernating syrup will upset them and you must feed fondant or candy if necessary), On your visits, establish that hives remain waterproof, ensure that entrances are unblocked and remain in place (and no intruders).

Now is the time to get going on and complete the Winter Jobs during winter. What are they? They include:

·        repairing renewing and sterilising equipment, In particular stripping down old distorted etc. combs, clearing and sterilising frames.

·        Getting new equipment ready. N.B. Don't fit foundation until March - to keep fresh -brittle in cold weather.

·        rendering down wax and bringing it to 2012 AGM. Please, please, remember that without wax from members, in the right quantities, the Association will not be able to offer foundation at discounted rates to members.

Make a note of these; see newsletter and turn up, there is always something to learn.

DECEMBER: Generally.

23. Winter jobs and apiary inspections.

24. Fit mouse guards (if needed)……

25. Start Winter Emergency Feeding.

26. Treat with Oxalic Acid…………..

27. Make your 2012 Apiary Plans.

28. Christmas………………………..

Continue winter jobs. Continue apiary inspections

 The use of entrance blocks (see above) fitted to hives placed on open stands at least 15 ins high make mouse guards unnecessary. If you wish to use mouse guards, do not fit any before the robbing season is over. Fit with drawing pins. A magnet to push home drawing pins may save a few stings from disturbed bees. Finally, don't fit a mouse guard without first removing the entrance block!

It is now accepted that even a well-provisioned colony may die out if bee cluster becomes out of direct contact with stores, whatever the stores. Many colonies died out in this way in 2010/2011 winter. My answer is Winter Emergency Feeding (candy, fondant or honey scrapings from extractor, etc.) for all hives, irrespective of need. If you use an eke as suggested above it will be a simple matter quietly to lift the cover board and place the food directly above the cluster of bees. Can't find the clusters? Use a torch! The food can be put in a used butter container (or the like) turned upside down. If runny, cover the container with cling film and spike a few holes. VERY IMPORTANT - once you have started Winter Emergency Feeding you must renew feed as and when needed. There are pros and cons, for/against W.E.F. - the choice is yours!

Not all agree. Some describe as insurance against varroa. Used by National Bee Unit. Available from equipment suppliers in limited sizes. If you decide to use, it may make sense to share it with other beekeepers. Finish by the end of the month.

Read and re-read your bee books and settle your techniques for dealing with every bee problem. Write them down and learn them by heart!

Enjoy !

JANUARY: generally

29. Apiary Inspections………………..

30 Winter Jobs……..…………………

31. Winter Emergency Feeding……..

32. Blocked floors…………………….

33. New Year Sales………

Continue.

 Continue.

Continue.

A feature of 2010/2011 winter was considerable number of dead bees on floors. If necessary, remove entrance temporarily blocks/mouse guards and clear with a stick. Don't lift brood box off floor since it could disturb bee cluster

You may get a bargain in suppliers' New Year sales. Personally, I prefer to go for 1^stquality - some of my equipment is now over 50 years old - and still going strong. The choice is yours !

FEBRUARY:

Early February, Generally:

34. Apiary inspections………………

35. Winter Jobs………………………

36. Winter Emergency Feeding…….

37. Clean floors………………………

38. Solid floors……………………….

39. Running short of food? .............

40. First inspection: that first peek inside the brood chamber………...

41. Repeating a point………………

42. Association AGM……………….

Continue.

Continue.

Continue.

On a cold (not freezing) day, gently prise brood chamber from floor and place brood chamber over upturned roof. Clear debris from floor (and tray). If no ingrained dirt or debris simply reassemble hive over floor. You can give a new floor if you wish. Personally, if a wire floor is used and it is not clogged with dirt I do not do a floor change at this time. Otherwise introduce clean floor.

As above but it is always necessary to introduce a clean floor.

Early brood raising will hasten a food shortage. It will now be especially vital to supplement stores under Winter Emergency Feeding for any hive running short. Liquid feed should not be given at this time.

Choose a day when bees are flying. If you have adopted my eke method above you will have been able gently to lift the cover board and have a peek at any time without your bees being aware that they are being watched or being disturbed!. Now you must. Your action then depends on what you find.

Bees in cluster or semi-cluster and appearing happy: best to leave alone till March but heft for stores and feed as necessary. Use fondant, candy or honey scrapings.

Bees running about, excreta on frames, bees in distress. Your action depends on what you find. Remove outer frames until you reach frames with bees.

[a] If only a handful of bees it is probably best to close and remove hive, destroy and burn bees, and clean/sterilise all parts of the hive. However, speak to an experienced beekeeper first.

[b] If bees queenless, have drone laying queen and/or laying workers, make a note and deal as below in March. You may find it difficult to find the cause without causing massive disturbance to bees which could lead to them balling (i.e. killing) the queen. If so, provided bees not being robbed it may be best to delay and deal in March, see below.

Your bees could be getting very hungry! Please, please keep hefting and feeding as necessary.

Another great day. Please attend.

MARCH: Generally

43 . Winter Jobs! ...............................

44. March feeding……………………..

45. Second inspection……………......

46. Bait hives……………….........……

47. Spare equipment…….....………

Complete.

Feed all stocks except those with at least 20lb of stores .The mix I use is 1 pint water to 1 kg of sugar. Others use 1 pint to 1 lb (which may ferment, in my experience). Use bucket feeders because bees will not leave cluster and rise into Ashforth or rapid types. In an emergency (and Winter Emergency Feeding is not available) give 1 kg bag of sugar, slit and dropped into a bucket of water, roughly drained, and then placed, slit side down, directly over bees (again, an eke makes the job simple).

Again, choose a day when bees are flying stocks apparently happy (strong or weak) taking in heavy loads of pollen and generally lively. Open stock sufficiently to check queen laying well (all is well if you see good patches of healthy brood - no need to look for queen but if you happen to do so then mark her. Some clip queen's wings. I don't.

·        Unhappy stocks etc i.e. the ones you noted in February and any others.

Establish the source of the trouble, and if not certain take advice from an experienced beekeeper. Here are some of the situations you may find:

·        Queenless stocks (and no laying workers)

Be quite certain they are queenless. A non-laying queen may be present - if so she must be destroyed. Then unite with stronger stock by newspaper method. But note that in a bad winter she could be a late starter (compared with her peers in other hives) If so ensure stock is given some feed, check 14 days later and if no brood then destroy her without more ado and unite to queenright stock.

·        Queenless stocks with laying workers.

Introduction to queenright stock almost certainly will result in queen being killed. Instead proceed as follows. Remove and place relevant hive about 20 ft away, with the entrance at 90 degrees to its original direction and place new brood chamber on original site with say three combs (these can be taken, bees first shaken off, from old brood chamber when on its new site. The non-laying flying good workers will return to their old site, the layers will not return (they get lost in the move!) and 24 hours later the bees in new brood chamber can be united with a queenright stock by newspaper method. Then chuck out remaining bees in old brood chamber onto the ground and leave them to their own destiny. Some may become "good" workers again!

It is definitely worthwhile putting out bait hives to catch your / others' stray swarms. Use any old brood chamber (but not from diseased bees) and place 2/3 old brood frames (but not from diseased bees) containing no stores (the best are from a starved out stock) within it. If possible fill the box with frames but don't worry if you can't (if you leave brood box half-empty bees will build wild comb in the space which is perhaps better than having no swarm!). Once a swarm arrives, get it into a proper hive once queen has started laying, replacing old brood frames as soon as possible. Place bait hives on any structure within hand height, the higher the better.

It is no good rushing all over the place whenever spare equipment is needed whether because of the arrival of a swarm or whatever. Remember:

Each colony may need a minimum of three supers.

Each colony may need splitting under an artificial swarm procedure and therefore need at least one additional floor entrance block brood box, frames, cover board and roof.

Each colony may instead be split under the nucleus method, if so you need a nucleus box roof and frames.

Get these ready now. Better still put them in position NOW as the apiary will be raring to go like you at the prospect of Spring!